Aberdeen (Scottish Gaelic: Obar Dheathain) is Scotland's third largest city, with a population of 202,370.[1] Locals call it the Granite City and the Silver City (since much of the city was built of grey granite which, in the opinion of loyal locals, shimmers like silver in the sun)[2] or the Oil Capital of Europe (since the discovery of North Sea oil).[3] Aberdeen is thought to have the highest rate of depression and suicide in the United Kingdom.
The area around Aberdeen has had human settlement since at least 6000BC[4] when there were small villages around the mouths of the River Dee and River Don. In 1319 it received Royal Burgh status from Robert the Bruce, transforming the city economically. With two universities, the first King's College was formed in 1495 and the second the Robert Gordon University in 1729 make Aberdeen the educational centre of the north-east. The traditional industries were fishing, paper making, ship building and textiles although today these industries have been taken over by the oil industry and Aberdeen's seaport, the largest in the north-east of Scotland.
Aberdeen is renowned for its parks and gardens, having won the Britain in Bloom competition ten times[5] and for its international football and youth festivals.
ArchitectureUnion Street, built of granite from 1801-05 runs from Castle Street for nearly a mile (1.5 km), is 70 feet (21 m) wide, and originally contained the principal shops and most public buildings. Part of the street crosses the Denburn ravine (utilised for the line of the Great North of Scotland Railway) by Union Bridge, a granite arch of 132 feet (40 m) span[10], with portions of the older town still fringing the gorge, 50 feet (15 m) below the level of Union Street.
The Town House, in Franco-Scottish Gothic style is at the east end of Union Street. Containing the great hall, with an open timber ceiling and oak-panel walls; the Sheriff Court House and the Town and County Hall, with portraits of various Lord Provosts and distinguished citizens. On the south-western corner is the 210 foot (64 m) grand tower high enough to give a view of the city and surrounding country. Adjoining the Town House is the old North of Scotland Bank building, in Greek Revival style.
Other notable buildings on the street are the Town and County Bank, the Music Hall, the Trinity Hall of the incorporated trades (1398-1527), now a shopping centre; the Palace Hotel and the former office of the Northern Assurance Company. Many of the city's most reknowned buildings were designed by local architect Archibald Simpson. Just off Union Street, Marischal College is the second largest granite building in the world.[11] Its present frontage was inaugurated by King Edward VII in 1906, but the central parts by Archibald Simpson are considerably older.
The Mercat Cross, built in 1686 by John Montgomery, is an open-arched structure, 21 feet (6 m) in diameter and 18 feet (5 m) high with a large hexagonal base from the centre of which rises a shaft with a Corinthian capital, on which is the royal unicorn. The base is highly decorated, including medallions illustrating Scottish monarchs from James I to James VII.
Notable religious buildings are Kirk of St Nicholas, in the centre of the city, with a large kirkyard separated from Union Street by a 147 foot (45 m) long Ionic facade, built in 1830. The divided church within, with a central tower and spire, forms one continuous building 220 feet (67 m) in length. In Old Aberdeen, St Machar's Cathedral was started in the 12th century but took centuries to complete with the exception of the period of the episcopates of William Elphinstone and Gavin Dunbar, who completed the structure by adding the two western spires and the southern transept.
The ancient Brig o' Balgownie, a picturesque single arch spanning the deep black stream, is said to have been built by King Robert I. The Bridge of Dee consists of seven semicircular ribbed arches, is about 30 feet (10 m) high, and was built early in the 16th century by Bishops Elphinstone and Dunbar. It was nearly all rebuilt 1718-23 and in 1842 was widened from 14 to 26 feet (4 to 8 m).
ReligionTraditionally Christian, Aberdeen's largest denominations are the Church of Scotland through the Presbytery of Aberdeen and the Catholic faith.
There is also an Islamic Mosque in Old Aberdeen and a small informal Jewish congregation. There is no formal Buddhist or Hindu building. The University of Aberdeen has a small Bahá'í society.
In the Middle Ages, the Kirk of St Nicholas was the only burgh kirk and one of Scotland's largest parish churches. Like a number of other Scottish kirks, it was subdivided after the Reformation, in this case into the East and West churches. At this time the city also was home to houses of the Carmelites (Whitefriars) and Franciscans (Greyfriars), the latter surviving in modified form as the chapel of Marischal College as late as the early 20th Century.
St Machar's Cathedral was formed twenty years after David I (1124-53) transferred the pre-Reformation Diocese from Mortlach in Banffshire to Old Aberdeen in 1137. With the exception of the episcopate of William Elphinstone (1484-1511), building progressed slowly. Gavin Dunbar, who followed him in 1518, completed the structure by adding the two western spires and the southern transept.St. Mary's Cathedral is a Roman Catholic Cathedral in Gothic style, erected in 1859.
St. Andrew's Cathedral is the Scottish Episcopal Cathedral, constructed in 1817 as Archibald Simpson's first commission. It is notable for having consecrated the first bishop of the Episcopal Church in the United States of America.
EconomyTraditionally Aberdeen was home to fishing, textile mills, ship building and paper making. There industries have all but gone now and have been replaced with high technology developments in the electronics design and development industry, research in agriculture and fishing and of course the oil industry which has been largely responsible for Aberdeen's economic boom in the last three decades.
Until the 1970s, most of Aberdeen's leading industries dated from the 18th Century; mainly these were textiles, foundry work, shipbuilding and paper-making — the oldest industry in the city, with paper having been first made there in 1694. Paper-making however finished in the city with the closure of Donside Paper Mill, closed in 2001, and the Davidson Mill, closed in 2005.
Grey granite was quarried at Rubislaw quarry for more than 300 years, and used for paving setts, kerb and building stones, and monumental and other ornamental pieces. Aberdeen granite was used to build the terraces of the Houses of Parliament and Waterloo Bridge in London. Quarrying finally ceased in 1971.
Fishing was once the predominant industry, but was surpassed by deep-sea fisheries, which derived a great impetus from improved technologies throughout the 20th Century. Lately, catches have fallen due to overfishing in previous years, and the use of the harbour by oil support vessels.[12] Aberdeen remains an important fishing port but is now eclipsed by the more northerly ports of Peterhead and Fraserburgh. The Fisheries Research Services is based in Aberdeen, including its headquarters and a marine research lab in Torry.
Aberdeen is well regarded for the agricultural and soil research that takes place at The Macaulay Institute, which has close links to the city's two universities. The Rowett Research Institute is a world renowned research centre for studies into food and nutrition located in Aberdeen, it has produced three Nobel laureates and there is a high concentration of life scientists working in the city.[13][14]
There is also a dynamic and fast growing electronics design and development industry.
With the discovery of significant oil deposits in the North Sea during the late 20th Century, Aberdeen became the centre of Europe's petroleum industry. With the second largest heliport in the world and an important service ship harbour port serving oil rigs off-shore Aberdeen is often called the Oil Capital of Europe.[15]
Recently there have been local political attempts to turn Aberdeen's reputation as the Oil Capital of Europe into the Energy Capital of Europe as oil supplies may start to dwindle in coming years, and there is considerable interest in the development of new energy sources; technology transfer from oil to other industries is anticipated.[16]
Aberdeen has managed to avoid the dilapidation of city centres often seen in recent times, with only supermarkets and 'warehouse' style stores in the outlying areas of the city, but the city ranks only a poor fourth in Scotland for shopping. The centre has remained relatively prosperous, although Union Street has more than its fair share of discount stores and empty units. The traditional shopping streets are Union Street and George Street which are now backed up by inner-city shopping centres, notably the Bon Accord-St Nicholas Centre and the The Mall Trinity.
EducationAberdeen has two universities, the University of Aberdeen and Robert Gordon University.
The University of Aberdeen began life as King's College, which was founded in 1495 by William Elphinstone (1431-1514), Bishop of Aberdeen and Chancellor of Scotland. Marischal College, a separate institution was founded in 'New' Aberdeen by George Keith, 5th Earl Marischal of Scotland in 1593. At this date there were as many universities in Aberdeen as were in the whole of England. These institutions were amalgamated to form the present University of Aberdeen in 1860. King's and Marischal were Scotland's third and fifth oldest universities respectively.[17]
Robert Gordon's College (originally Robert Gordon's Hospital) was founded in 1729 by the merchant Robert Gordon, grandson of the map maker Robert Gordon of Straloch, and was further endowed in 1816 by Alexander Simpson of Collyhill. Originally devoted to the instruction and maintenance of the sons of poor burgesses of guild and trade in the city, it was reorganised in 1881 as a day and night school for secondary and technical education. In 1903 the vocational education component of the college was designated a Central Institution and was renamed as the Robert Gordon Institute of Technology in 1965. In 1992 university status was gained and it became the Robert Gordon University.
Aberdeen is also home to two artistic schools: Gray's School of Art, founded in 1886, which is one of the oldest established colleges of art in the UK, and is now incorporated into Robert Gordon University; and The Scott Sutherland School of Architecture and The Built Environment, which is situated on the Garthdee Campus of the Robert Gordon University, next to Gray's School of Art.
Aberdeen College has several campuses in the city and offers a wide variety of part-time and full-time courses leading to several different qualifications. It is the largest further education institution in Scotland.
SchoolsThere are currently 12 secondary schools and 54 primary schools which are run by the city council. The most notable are Cults Academy, Oldmachar Academy and Aberdeen Grammar School (founded in 1263) which were all rated in the top 20 Scottish secondary schools league tables in 2005.[18]
There are a number of private schools in Aberdeen; Albyn School for Girls (co-educational as of 2006), St Margaret's School for Girls, the Hamilton School (a Montessori school), Robert Gordon's College, the Total S.A. French School (for French oil industry families), the International School of Aberdeen and a Waldorf/Steiner School.
GeographyAberdeen extends to 71.22 square miles (184.46 km²), and includes the former burghs of Old Aberdeen, New Aberdeen, Woodside and the Royal Burgh of Torry to the south of River Dee. The city is built on many hills, with the original beginnings of the city growing from Castle Hill, St. Catherine's Hill and Windmill Hill (also known as the Gallowgate).[19]
ClimateThe coldest of the Scottish cities, exposed Aberdeen is noted for its biting winds and driving rain, which sweep in from the North Sea. Snowfall in winter can be significant while summer temperatures rarely reach 20c and often struggle to reach above the mid teens (celsius).
The mean temperature is 8 °C (47 °F) and it varies between an average low of 5 °C (41 °F) and 11 °C (52 °F). In summer (June - August) the average high is 16 °C (63 °F) and average low 9 °C (49 °F). In winter (December - February) the average high is 6 °C (43 °F) and average low 0 °C (33 °F).
The average yearly precipitation is 753 millimetres (29.7 in), with 64 millimetres (2.5 in) in summer (June - August) and 62 millimetres (2.5 in) in winter (December - February). The wettest months are October and November.
DemographicsIn 1396 the population was about 3,000. By 1801 it had become 26,992; in 1841 it was 63,262; (1891) 121,623; (1901) 153,503; (1941) 182,467.[20] In 2001 it UK census records the Aberdeen City Council areas population at 212,125,[21] but the Aberdeen locality's population at 184,788.[22] The latest official population estimate, published by the General Register for Scotland for 2005, is 202,370.[1]
Data from the Aberdeen specific locality of the 2001 UK census shows that the demographics include a median male age of 35 and female age of 38 which are younger than Scotland's average and a 49% to 51% male to female ratio.[21] In the household, there were 97,013 individual dwellings recorded in the city of which 61% were privately owned, 9% privately rented and 23% rented from the council. The most popular type of dwellings are apartments which have 49% of residences followed by semi-detached at just below 22%.[23]
Educationally Aberdeen has a higher student rate than the national average of 11.5% compared to 7% nationally.[24]
CultureThe city is blessed with amenities which cover a wide range of cultural activities and boasts a selection of museums. The city is regularly visited by Scotland's National Arts Companies. The Aberdeen Art Gallery houses a collection of Impressionist, Victorian, Scottish and 20th Century British paintings as well as collections of silver and glass. It also includes The Alexander Macdonald Bequest, a collection of late 19th century works donated by the museum's first benefactor and a constantly changing collection of contemporary work and regular visiting exhibitions.[25]
Museums and galleriesThe Aberdeen Maritime Museum, located in Shiprow, tells the story of Aberdeen's links with the sea from the days of sail and clipper ships to the latest oil and gas exploration technology. It includes an 8.5m (28 feet) high model of the Murchison oil production platform and a 19th century assembly taken from Rattray Headlighthouse.[26]
Provost Ross' House is the second oldest dwelling house in the city. It was built in 1593 and became the residence of Provost John Ross of Arnage in 1702. The house retains some original medieval features, including a kitchen, fire places and beam-and-board ceilings.[27] The Gordon Highlanders Museum tells the story of one of Scotland's best known regiments.[28]
Marischal Museum holds the principal collections of the University of Aberdeen, comprising some 80,000 items in the areas of fine art, Scottish history and archaeology, and European, Mediterranean & Near Eastern archaeology. The permanent displays and reference collections are augmented by regular temporary exhibitions.[29]
Performing artsAberdeen is home to a host of events and festivals including the Aberdeen International Youth Festival (the world's largest arts festival for young peformers), Aberdeen International Football Festival ( featuring young football teams from all over the world), Rootin' Aboot (folk and roots music event based at the Lemon Tree), Triptych, and the University of Aberdeen's literature festival Word.
Aberdeen's music scene includes a variety of live music venues including pubs, clubs, and a number of churches with thriving choirs. The music scene is particularly prevalent in the bars of Belmont Street. Cèilidhs are also common in some of the city's halls. Popular venues include The Lemon Tree, The Tunnels, the Aberdeen Exhibition and Conference Centre, and Aberdeen Music Hall. Aberdonian musicians include Evelyn Glennie and Annie Lennox.
Open spacesAberdeen has long been famous for its 45[5] outstanding parks and gardens, and citywide floral displays which include two million roses, eleven million daffodils and three million crocuses. The city has won the Royal Horticultural Society's Britain in Bloom 'Best City' award ten times [5], the overall Scotland in Bloom competition twenty times[5] Most recently it won the 2006 Scotland in Bloom 'Best City' award along with the International Cities in Bloom award. The suburb of Dyce also won the Small Towns award.[30][31]
The Duthie Park opened in 1899 on the north bank of the river Dee. It was named after and gifted to the city by Miss Elizabeth Crombie Duthie of Ruthrieston in 1881. It has extensive gardens, a rose hill, boating pond, bandstand, and play area as well Europe's second largest enclosed gardens the David Welch Winter Gardens. For those looking for a less flower orientated experience then Hazlehead Park is the place to go. A large, heavily wooded park on the outskirts of the city, it is popular with walkers in the forests, sports enthusiasts, naturalists and picnickers. There are football pitches, two golf courses, a pitch and putt course and a horse riding school.
Aberdeen's success in the Britain in Bloom competitions is often attributed to Johnston Gardens, a small park of one hectare containing many different flowers and plants which have been renowned for their beauty. The garden was in 2002, named the best garden in Britain.[5]
Seaton Park, formerly the grounds of a private house, is on the edge of the grounds of St Machar's Cathedral. The Cathedral Walk is maintained in a formal style with a great variety of plants providing a popular display. The park includes several other areas with contrasting styles to this.
Union Terrace Gardens opened in 1879 and is situated in the centre of the city. It is a popular rendezvous location in the heart of the city with locals and is filled with trees of over 200 years old and flowers arranged in the city's coat of arms in summer.
Situated next to each other, Victoria Park and Westburn Park cover 26 acres between them. Victoria Park opened in 1871. There is a conservatory used as a seating area and a fountain made of fourteen different granites, presented to the people by the granite polishers and master builders of Aberdeen. Opposite to the north is Westburn Park opened in 1901. With large grass pitches it is widely used for field sports. There is large tennis centre with indoor and outdoor courts, a children's cycle track, play area and a grass boules lawn.
DialectThe local dialect of Lowland Scots is often known as the Doric, and is spoken not just in the city, but across the north-east of Scotland. It differs somewhat from other Scots dialects. Every year the annual Doric Festival takes place in Aberdeenshire to celebrate the history of the north-east's language.
As with all Scots dialects in urban areas, it is not spoken as widely as it used to be in Aberdeen. In the surrounding Aberdeenshire it can be heard quite commonly but within the city, some words are still commonly used, such as:
Aberdeen has a long publishing and broadcast history, with Scotland oldest newspaper the Press and Journal being published since 1748 in the city. It and its sister paper, the Evening Express are both printed six days a week by Aberdeen Journals. There are two free newspapers Aberdeen Citizen and Aberdeen Independent.
Aberdeen is home to the northern headquarters of the STV brand, which has replaced Grampian Television the regional television station of 45 years. The local news programme North Tonight is produced from Aberdeen and goes out over the whole north of Scotland.
BBC Scotland have a small building in Aberdeen's Beechgrove area and BBC Aberdeen is most famous for its production of the Beechgrove Garden television and radio programmes.[32]
There are two major local radio stations Northsound One and Northsound Two, both run by Northsound Radio.[33]
Other radio stations include Multi-ethnic FM (MEFM), NECR FM (the North-East Community Radio FM) DAB station[34] and the Station House Media Unit run the online radio station SHMU.net FM.
SportAberdeen is home to a number of important sporting clubs. The largest is Scottish Premier League football club, Aberdeen FC, who play at Pittodrie. Its major success was winning the European Cup Winners Cup and the European Super Cup in 1983, and three Scottish Premier League Championships between 1980 and 1986.
Aberdeen also plays host to Cove Rangers F.C. of the Highland Football League, who play at Allan Park in the suburb of Cove Bay.[35]
Aberdeen is also home to the BT Premiership Division One rugby club Aberdeen GSFP RFC who play at Rubislaw Playing Fields.
Royal Aberdeen Golf Club was founded in 1780, and hosted the Senior British Open in 2005.[36] The club has a second course, and there are public golf courses at Auchmill, Balnagask, Hazlehead and King's Links.[37]
Aberdeen also has a strong swimming team. Based at Northfield Pool, the City of Aberdeen Swim Team (COAST) have been running since 1996. The team comprises several smaller swimming clubs, and has enjoyed success on all levels from North District to international. Three of the team's swimmers qualified for the 2006 Commonwealth Games.[38]
TransportAberdeen Airport, at Dyce in the north of the city, serves a number of domestic and international destinations including France, Netherlands and Scandinavian countries. The heliport which serves the oil industry and rescue services is the busiest commercial heliport in the world.[39]
Aberdeen railway station is on the main UK rail network and connects directly to major cities such as Edinburgh and London. Many services from London actually terminate at Dyce, serving the airport.
Aberdeen has eight crossings of the River Dee and four of the River Don within its boundaries, the most famous being the 13th Century Brig o' Balgownie.
There are five major roads in and out of the city the A90, A96, A93, A92 and the A947.
Aberdeen Harbour is important as the largest in the north of Scotland and as a ferry route to Orkney and Shetland. Established in 1136, it has been referred to as the oldest business in Britain.[40]
PoliticsAberdeen is locally governed by Aberdeen City Council, which comprises forty-three councillors who represent the city's wards and is headed by the Lord Provost who is currently Provost John Reynolds.
As of mid-2006 the council, with a Liberal Democrat and Labour coalition, consists of: 20 Liberal Democrat, 3 Conservative, 14 Labour and 6 Scottish National Party councillors.[41]
All seats will become vacant for the next general election to the council on 5 May 2007.
In the United Kingdom Parliament, the city is divided between three constituencies: Aberdeen North, Aberdeen South and Gordon.
There are three Scottish Parliament constituencies: Aberdeen North, Aberdeen Central and Aberdeen South.
Aberdeen is twinned with several cities across Europe and throughout the rest of the world, these are:[42]
References
