Marseille, (English alt. Marseilles — French: pronounced /maʀsɛj/ or [mɑxˈsɛjɐ] locally — Occitan: Marselha [maʀˈsejɔ, maʀˈsijɔ] in classical norm or in Provenal: Marsiho [maʀˈsijɔ] in Mistralian norm — Latin: Massilia) is the second-largest city of France and forms the third-largest metropolitan area, with 1,516,340 inhabitants at the 1999 census (only Paris and Lyon are larger). Located in the former province of Provence and on the Mediterranean Sea, it is France's largest commercial port. It is considered the Provenal capital, one of the Occitan capitals of Occitania, and the most populated, and France. Marseille is also the capital of the Provence-Alpes-Cte d'Azur rgion, as well as the prfecture (capital) of the Bouches-du-Rhne dpartement.
GeographyMarseille is the centre of a large metropolitan area, the third largest city in France. To the east (9th arrondissement) are the callanque's area (kind of little fjords) and the village of Cassis, and further afield is the town of Toulon. To the north of Marseille are a range of small mountains and the 1011 m Mont Saint Victoire. To the west of Marseille is the Camargue region and the Lion's Gulf. The city itself is spread across a wide geographical area divided into 16 arrondissements. The central four contain most of the city's historic buildings and its services.
The city's main thoroughfare, the wide boulevard called La Canebire, stretches eastward from the Old Port (Vieux Port/Panier quarter). The tourist information centre operates at the Old Port end of the Canebire. Adjacent to La Canebire is the Old Port (where the marina and fish market are located.) At the entrance to the Old Port are two large forts - Fort St Nicholas on the south side and Fort St Jean on the other. The main commercial centre of the city intersects with the Canebire at Rue Paradis and the Centre Bourse (the main shopping mall). Pedestrianised squares radiate away from the Canebire and the old port such as Cours Julien and the Place du Gnral De Gaulle, both of which have fountains.
To the south east of central Marseille is the Prefecture and the roundabout Castellane (a bus and metro interchange) in the 7th arrondissement. To the south west are the hills of the 9th arrondissement, dominated by the Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde. The train station - Gare St Charles - is north of the Centre Bourse in the 3rd arrondissement. It is at the end of La Canebire and is near the square of Victor Hugo. The airport Marseille-en-Provence lies to the North West of the city at the Etang de Berre.
ModernDuring the late twentieth century, the city served as an entrance port for millions of immigrants to France, hundreds of thousands of whom came in 1962 from Algeria. Many immigrants have stayed and given the city a vibrant African quarter with a large market/bazaar.
After the oil crisis of 1973 and an economic downturn, Marseille became a haven for crime and high levels of poverty. In recent decades things have improved dramatically. Through plans from the AT in Paris and funds from the European Union, the city has developed a modern and advanced economy based on high technology manufacturing, oil refining and service sector employment. In terms of recent social history, Marseille has served as the home of the new right and the National Front. Because of high levels of unemployment and a large immigrant population, Marseille is home to a large population of National Front supporters.
Politically, from 1950 to the mid 1980s, Marseille was dominated by its long-term, six-times-re-elected mayor Gaston Defferre. The three most recent mayors are listed below:
Historically the economy of Marseille was dominated by its role as a port of the French Empire, linking the North African colonies of Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia with the French mainland. The majority of the old port and docks, which experienced decline in the 1970s after the oil crisis have been recently redeveloped with funds from the European Union. The old port now contains restaurants, offices, bars and hotels. Fishing however still remains important in Marseille and the food economy of Marseille is dominated by the local catch with the daily fish market still on the Belgian Quay in the Old Port.
Even today the economy of Marseille is dominated by the port, which functions as commercial container port as well as a transport port for the Mediterranean sea. However, all of Marseille's port activities now take place along the coast at the New Port (the Old port is too small for modern large ships to enter). The most important port on the Mediterranean, it handles millions of tons of freight annually. Major imports include petroleum, wine, fruits, olive oil, hides and skins, and tropical agricultural products. Major exports are dominated by wines, liqueurs, processed foods, cement, and metal products. Petroleum refining and shipbuilding are the principal industries, but chemicals, soap, glass, sugar, building materials, plastics, textiles, olive oil, and processed foods are also important products. Marseille is connected with the Rhne via a canal and thus has access to the extensive waterway network of France. Petroleum is shipped northward to the Paris basin by pipeline. The city also serves as France's leading centre of oil refinement.
Marseille is a major French centre for trade and industry, with an excellent transportation infrastructure (roads, sea port and airport). The airport, Marseille-Provence, is the leading French airport outside Paris. It is the main arrival base for millions of tourists each year as well as serving a growing business community. The area around the airport and near the borders of Aix-en-Provence and northern Marseille now boasts a successful business and science park. Marseille is also home to the University of Provence. The economy is closely associated with the Marseille Provence Metropolis, France's second largest research centre with 3000 research scientists. Marseille Metropole Provence is home to thousands of companies, 90% of which are small businesses. Among the most famous ones are: CMA-CGM, container-shipping giant; Comex, world leader in sub-sea engineering and hydraulic systems; Eurocopter Group, an EADS company; Azur Promotel, an active real estate development company; La Provence, the local daily newspaper; L'Olympique de Marseille, the famous soccer club; RTM, Marseille's public transport company; and Socit Nationale Maritime Corse Mditerrane (SNCM), a major operator in passenger, vehicle and freight transportation in the Western Mediterranean.
In recent years the city has also experienced a large growth in service sector employment and a switch from light manufacturing to a cultural economy. Marseille acts as a regional nexus for entertainment in the south of France and has a high concentration of museums, cinemas, theatres, clubs, bars, restaurants, fashion shops, hotels and art galleries, all geared towards a tourist economy.
Unemployment in the economy has fallen to 13 percent in 2005 from 20 percent in 1995. In May, the French financial magazine L'Expansion named Marseille the most dynamic of France's large cities, citing figures showing that 7,200 companies had been created in the city since 2000. However Marseille remains a city with high unemployment against the European average and suffers a lack of jobs for its large immigrant population. Whilst much of the Marseille economy has been revitalised since its decay in the 1970s it still remains significantly stagnant in regards to growth compared with Paris and the old industrial regions of north-eastern France.
AdministrationMarseille is divided into 16 municipal arrondissements, which are themselves divided into quartiers (111 in total). The arrondissements are regrouped, in pairs, into 8 sectors, with each sectors having a council and a town hall (like the arrondissements in Paris and in Lyon).
The municipal elections are carried out by sector. Each sector elects its councillors (303 in total), one third of which are municipal councillors.
Number of councilors elected by sector:
The Sector Mayors :
The cantons of Marseille :
Marseille holds 25 of the 58 seats at the general council of the Bouches-du-Rhne. Since the last election, these 25 cantons are held by the following councilors:
The population growth of Marseille followed the national average until the mid 20th century. From the years 1200 to 1800 the population remained below 100,000. From 1800 to 1930 the population grew to over 500,000. The majority of population growth was from native birth though a significant amount of Italian, Portuguese and Spanish immigrants arrived. By the mid-1950s, Marseille, as France's largest sea port, experienced a massive demographic growth as a result of the thousands of immigrants arriving. Later, many immigrants came from former French colonies from North Africa, notably Algeria. The population of central Marseille grew to just under one million by the 1980s. In the last three decades the population of Marseille has declined, as numerous residents have moved elsewhere for work, or to suburban communities.
Today, many Marseillais are descendants of the waves of immigrants that arrived at the port in the early 19th century. As a result, the ethnic French are a minority. The largest ethnic groups in the city are Italian who make up 37.5%[1] of the population. Other significant communities include North African Arabs (25% of the total population), and Armenians (12.5% of the total population [2]). It is estimated that roughly a quarter of the population are ethnic French. Other significant immigrant groups include people of Turkish, Greek, German and Vietnamese origins. The Jewish community is also said to be the third largest in Europe (France has the largest Jewish community in Europe and the third largest in the world).
ClimateMarseille has a Mediterranean climate, with mild, dry winters and warm, humid summers. January and February are the coldest months, averaging temperatures of 10 C (51 F). July and August are the hottest months, averaging temperatures of 25 C (78 F). Marseille is known for its Mistral (wind) that occurs mostly in winter and spring.
CultureMarseille is a city that is proud of its differences from the rest of France. At the outset of the French Revolution a group of Marseillais embarked from the south of France to support the conflict and dismantling of the Bastille. The French national anthem 'La Marseillaise' is so named because it was first known as sung on the streets as a rallying call of the French Revolution by troops from Marseille. Today Marseille is a site of regional culture and entertainment served by its important opera house, its history and maritime museums, its five galleries and vast amount of cinemas, clubs, bars and restaurants.
In regards to literature and the arts, Marseille has been the birth place and home of many French writers. In modern times, one can quote Victor Glu, Valre Bernard, Pierre Bertas, Edmond Rostand and Andr Roussin as leading examples. The artist Czanne spent much time in Marseille and painted several works of art there. The most widely circulated tarot deck comes from Marseille; it is called the Tarot de Marseille, and was used to play the local variant of tarocchi before it became used in cartomancy.
OperaMarseille's main cultural attraction was, since its creation at the end of the 18th century and until the late 1970s, the Opra. Located near the Old Port and the Canebire, at the very heart of the city, its architectural style is comparable to the classical trend found on other opera houses built at that time in Lyon and Bordeaux. In 1920 a fire almost completely destroyed the building, leaving only the faade's colonnade which can still be admired today. The reconstruction led to a major competition with a main focus on the Art Deco style. For example, Bourdelle worked on the frescos which frame the drop cloth. The Opera's artistic value led the municipality to classify the building as a historical monument. The future of Marseille's Opra stands on attracting younger groups, rejuvenating the monument's aging image, and achieving the recognition of the sought-after title of 'National Opera'. Marseille is candidate for becoming 'the European city of culture' and its opera house will play an important part.
Sister citiesMarseille has been the setting for films, both Hollywood and local French films.
Marseilles is classified as a significant centre of art and history. The city boasts many excellent museums and galleries. Of historical interest are many ancient buildings and churches.
1st and 2nd ArrondissementsThe 1st and 2nd arrondissements are the site of most of Marseilles shops and attractions, which include:
The city is served by an international airport, Aroport de Marseille Provence, located in Marignane. The airport has two terminals. Terminal one, the main terminal of the airport contains halls 1,2,3 and 4 and serves as a base for international arrivals and departures. The new terminal, referred to as Marseille Mp2 is used for flights arriving and departing from Europe. A shuttle coach system operates between the airport and the train station Saint-Charles.
An extensive network of motorways connects Marseille to Lyon (A7), nearby Aix-en-Provence, Toulon and the French Riviera beyond.
The train station Saint-Charles is Marseille's leading train station, the other being the Maritime station. The centenary railway station of Saint-Charles operates regional services to nearby towns such as Toulouse and Nice as well as being the end of the TGV in the south of France. Trains take only three hours to make the huge distance to Paris.
Marseille itself is connected by the metro train system consisting of 2 lines represented by orange and blue. Line 1 (blue) between Catellane and La Rose opened in 1977 and Line 2 (orange) between Sainte-Marguerite/Dromel and Bougainville opened between 1984 and 1987. An extension to Line 1 from Castellane to La Timone was completed in 1992 and a further extension from La Timone up to La Fourragre was recently completed. The Metro system operates on a turnstile system, with tickets purchased at the nearby adjacent automated booths. Both lines of the Metro intersect at the Gare de Marseille Saint-Charles. Marseille's busiest Metro station is the Old Port - the Vieux Port, which is decorated with cobblestones and has fish tanks in the walls.
An extensive bus network serves the city and suburbs of Marseille. The majority of bus services originate from the Catellane - a large street near the Prefecture.
SportThe city boasts a wide variety of sports facilities and caters to almost every interest. The dominant force in the sporting world of the city is the city's football club - Olympique de Marseille, UEFA Champions League winner in 1993. The club is reasonably successful but was tainted recently in the 1990s match fixing scandal by then-owner Bernard Tapie. The clubs home - the stade Velodrome, also functions for other local sports including cycling and athletics, as well as national rugby team Tests. Stade Velodrome will also host a number of games during the 2007 Rugby World Cup. The local rugby team is Marseille Provence XV.
Sailing is a major sport in Marseille. The winds can blow from different directions and allow interesting regattas in the warm waters of the Mediterranean. Most of the time it can be windy while the sea remains smooth enough to allow sailing. It has been considered as a possible site for 2008 Americas Cup. Marseille is also a place for other water sports such as windsurfing, sailing and powerboating. Marseille has three golf courses to its north and north east. The city also boasts dozens of gyms and several council owned swimming pools. Running is also popular in many of Marseilles parks such as Le Pharo and Le Jardin Pierre Puget.
Births and deaths in MarseilleMarseille was the birthplace of:
The following personalities died in Marseille:
